Easter climbing

A busy weekend coming up with climbers booked in on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.  All we need now is some spring weather!

Snow

Like most parts of the country my corner of Devon had about 5 inches of snow last night, so no school today.

North Wales winter climbing

Another cold day in Wales on Sunday with snow down to the road level in Capel Curig. Rob and I went to the Idwal stream, which was in good condition with plenty of ice there was still some running water in places but enough ice to avoid getting wet. A few more days of cold weather should see more of the ice routes around the Devils kitchen coming into condition.

Snowdon

After driving up from Devon and listening to snow reports in the East of the country I was pleased to find the weather in North Wales was bitterly cold and with snow forecast. On Saturday we went to look at an old favourite - Central Trinity on Snowdon. A good climb but it needs a few days of freeze/thaw to harden up the new snow. On the top it was very cold - shame the summit cafe wasn't open!

Dartmoor

Met up with Darren for a day at the Dewerstone. The weather was great in the morning withsun and clear skies but as forecast the rain arrived at 2.30 so we retreated to the Dartrock climbing wall for some indoor routes and a nice cup of tea. By the time we left many of the roads were getting flooded. Forecast to rain on sunday as well.

Berry Head

After a very wet end to August it has been great to have a sunny weekend so I took the opportunity to do Quality St at Berry head a 230ft VS traverse of the end of the headland which goes just above the high water mark. A great position and nice to be beside the sea!


Ben on pitch 2

Dewerstone

After another wet week in August I finally met up with Anthony who was going climbing to celebrate his 30th birthday. Anthony was already a good wall climber who makes regular visits to The Castle in London. We got some much needed sunshine on Saturday and as it was a bank holiday weekend the crag was very busy. After a morning of belay escapesand rescues we avoided the crowds and did Fly on the Wall (HS) and Spiders Web (HVS 5a)

Dewerstone

After the heat of Baggy on Thursday it was back to the damp of Dartmoor today. I met up with Mark from Cornwall and did three routes at the Dewerstone, Mark was climbing well and didn't mind the wet!

Popped into the new Dartrock wall on the way home and it looks very good. Well worth a visit if you are in the area.

Baggy Point

A hot and sunny day today at Baggy. I met up with Mat just after high tide and went to do some routes on the Promontory and Long Rock slabs. We did Ben (s), Marion (HS) and Lost Horizon (VS). A very enojyable day.

Mat on Ben

Bosigran

Another good day on Friday, climbed at Bosigran with Jon and did Venusberg (VS) and Zig zag (VS) and it was another hot day.

Chair ladder

A hot day at a great climbing venue. Did Terriers Tooth and Pedulum Chimney on Thursday, 2 great routes on nice granite.

Sat at the top of Pedulum Chimney - what a great view!

Coasteering

Today I took students from Court Fields on a coasteering trip at Baggy Point. It rained but this didn't matter as we were in the sea and jumping and swimming. A very enjoyable session and hopefully many of them will back again next year.

Hay Tor Court Fields School

I took students from my school to Hay Tor for a climbing session today and despite a wet and windy start the students climbed well and enjoyed the experience.

Sheepstor

A day out at Sheepstor with Jon, Paul and Josh. The weather was good after a shower in the morning and the boys were able to do some leading as well as plenty of top roping. A very enjoyable day.

Josh - learning to lead

Dewerstone

I was back at the Dewerstone on Saturday with Ian from Somerset who was keen to do some climbing and look at belays on multi-pitch climbs. After a warm up route we climbed Fly on the Wall (HS) and Vineyard (VS). It was nice to see fellow instructors Andy Holborn and Ben Bradford who were both working with groups at the crag.

I'll be back here next weekend.

Ian on pitch 3 of Vineyard

Wye Valley

Had such a nice day last week that I came back today with Duncan to do some more. Angel Eyes HVS 5b was a great route with lots of exposure but a bit of a tricky start. We also did Puma HVS.

Wye Valley

Met up with Jon at Wintours Leap and climbed Right Hand Route (HS), Nibelheim (VS) and Bacchanalian (HS) Jon was trying to push his grade and ended up doing the 5b finish on this route.

A great day on some very nice routes above the river Wye.

Swanage

The long abseil into Boulder Ruckle. A nice day at Swanage on some steep limestone.

Bosigran

Julia and Paul came down to Bosigran and we did Commando Ridge. The sea was a bit rough as we raced to start the first pitch but we had a good time on the ridge and the weather was very nice for early April. By the end of the day it was warm and sunny - another nice weekend in Cornwall.

Cornwall Classics Easter

I will be teaching in Cornwall on 4-5th April. If you would like to climb on the cliffs of Bosigran or Chair Ladder give me a call.

Kayaking

After the snows of two weeks ago normal weather has returned and I have been doing some kayaking and surfing. The beach in February, can't be bad!

Exmoor Snow

After a very cold week we got lots more snow today. School closed hurrah!

Dewerstone

A cold and sunny day on the Dewerstone on 28/12. Met up with David and Kat from Exeter who wanted to learn how to set up top rope systems and belays. Skills that will help them become safe and independent rock climbers.

Bosigran

Another hot day in Cornwall. Today I met up with Paul again who I last worked with a year ago. We climbed Ding a 3 pitch hard severe before popping off to nearby Haldrine Cove to explore another crag. We also had a look at Right Angle on Gurnards Head to whet the appetite for next time.

Bosigran Cornwall

An early Start on Saturday morning to avoid the heat at get to the start of commando ridge nice an early. Chris and Steve climbed very well and we quickly covered the 650ft of VDiff climbing. This left enough time to go and do Doorpost (HS) another classic route.

Sheeps Tor

A very hot day with a group of 4 climbers at Sheeps Tor. Gail managed a few climbs even though she had fallen off a horse a few days before!

Avon and Dewerstone

Jon and Paul had a day in Avon Gorge with Baz and them a second day at the Dewerstone with me. By day 2 they were leading simple multi-pitch routes and setting up their own anchors.

Chudleigh

After a very wet week in Devon Staurday brought some welcome sunshine and it was dry for Chris and Steve who were now learning to lead climb. The afternoon brought showers up on the moor so we were in the right place down at Chudleigh.

Commando Ridge Bosigran

This weekend I was working in Cornwall at Bosigran, an excellent climbing venue. Tom and Hamish travelled down from Bath and wanted to do Commando ridge, a classic 700ft VD that rises out of the sea and is the closest thing to an alpine ridge that you will find without going to North Wales or Scotland. The weather was very warm and sunny even though it was forecast for showers.

The route starts on a platform just above the sea (right)

Hamish on the ridge (left) with the sea below.

Dartmoor

A sunny day at the Dewerstone with Mat and Che Ming by the end of the day Mat had brushed up his leading skills and lead Mucky Gully and Colnels Arete.

Swanage

Back to Swanage again this week with Paul. Once again it was sunny and we were the only climbers at Gillemott ledge. Another great day.

Swanage

Even though much of the country had some snow on Sunday Swanage was sunny as usual on Monday. Met up with Jon and went to Guillemot and Cormorant Ledges and did 3 routes; Oran (S), Ledgend (HS) and Batt Crack (VS). Great climbing and a great location.

Tim Emmett Lecture at Court Fields Community School, Somerset

If you live in Devon or Somerset you may want to come and see Tim Emmett, the well known climber and base jumper. Tim is doing a lecture at my school on the evening of 24/1/08, the lecture is open to the public and starts at 7.30pm

Tickets are available from the school office. Tel no: 01823 664201

http://www.timemmett.com/

Tickets costs
Adult £5
Child £2.50
Family ticket £10

North Devon Sea Cliff climbing

Met up with Steve and Chris for an ascent of Wreckers Slab in North Devon - 400ft of slabby climbing. We were lucky with the weather, even though it was November the weather was dry. Hard to believe that Steve had a birthday this weekend and he had just qualified for his bus pass!

Leading course

A beautiful Autumn day at the Dewerstone on Saturday, Jeanine and Chris where learning about multi-pitch climbing.

Chudleigh Clear up 27th Oct

On Saturday 27/10 a group of local climbers will be attempting to clear some of the Ivy and undergrowth at Chudleigh. Remember to bring a helmet and some gardening tools if you come to help. Ask for Ben Hall when you arrive at the crag.

Hay Tor

A very busy day at Hay Tor. Mark, Tom and Debbie had their first taste of climbing and abseiling.

Dewerstone

After a wet forecast I went to the Dewerstone to meet Steve and his 2 sons Ollie and Dan. After climbing one wet route the weather cleared up and we did Needle Arete and Fly on the Wall which was completed just before the showers returned in the late afternoon.

Gold DofE

Spent the weekend working with my friend Paul from Dynamic Adventures with a gold D of E group on Dartmoor. Nice weather and great students. I

SPA Assessmet 8/9 Sept

Next week we are running an SPA assessment course in Devon. We also have another one planned for October. If you are looking for a place get in touch with me or Simon.

Baggy Point

John came down for his 4th visit to the south west and we went to Baggy Point. Excellent weather and some great climbing. John climbed 3 great routes and has become a very competent leader. The weather was great a the crag was quiet except for a few friends from the Mill climbing wall.

John on the main slab at Baggy Point

Commando Ridge Julia Bradbury

BBC TV

I expect everyone saw the BBC programme last Friday where Julia Bradbury climbed Commando ridge, Crackstone Rib and the Old Man of Stoer with Tim Emmett - well I have had loads of enquiries since then. If anyone wants to do this climb in October/November or even make a booking for Easter then get in touch. Unfortunately most of September is already booked.

Bosigran

Alan and Mat came down for a days climbing. Both were very keen as they are intending to go to the Alps later in the summer. Did plenty of climbing and finished off on 'Ding' a great route with plenty of interesting moves.

Bosigran

Climbing at Bosigran on Friday and Saturday.


On Friday I met up with Paul and Becky for their first taste of climbing, it was unusual to meet people who had never climbed before even on an indoor wall but they made great progress. Routes climbed Alisons Rib (D), Big Top (VD) and a combination of Black Slab and Red Slab. The weather was excellent and Bosigran is the perfect location.

Photo 1 At the top of Black slab
Photo 2 Paul exiting the v-groove of Red slab

Hay Tor

A quick trip out to Hay Tor with Rob. Routes climbed included Raven Wing (VS) Very sunny afternoon followed by a cream tea!

Chudleigh

A hot sunny afternoon at Chudleigh with Duncan.

Berry Head

Deep water soloing and traversing around the cliff at Swashbuckler buttress with Rob.

Dewerstone

Another great day at the Dewerstone in the sunshine. Jo and David came down from London having climbed indoors but not outside. Both made great progress and Jo remained very calm on the top pitch of needle arete even though it was a little difficult. The picture shows David belaying from the top of needle arete.







I bumped into old friend Barry Donovan who was also working at the crag - good to see you Baz.
Photo show climbers on Route B

Sheeps Tor

Laura and Alan teamed up for a day at Sheepstor. Alan was preparing for a trip to the Alps and Laura an instructors course. The weather was kind up until the end of the afternoon when the rain returned so we were pretty lucky!

Leading course Dartmoor

Tim and Sophie came down for a leading course on Saturday. After all the rain we have had recently we were very lucky and had a warm dry day (is this the start of the summer?) By the end of the day both were confidently leading easy routes and building their own belays.