Baggy Point

Saturday was a windy and wild day at Baggy Point but we remained dry all day even though you could see rain over Hartland.  After a few routes on the slab we went over to have a go at Shangri-la but the winds and waves that resulted from the tail end of hurricane Katia had just started to build up and hit the bottom of the route so we beat a hasty retreat.  Back in Croyde we watched some surfers trying to get on some massive waves without much success - very brave!

Sennen

John at Sennen

The weather on Sunday was windy and with rain forecast so we opted to go to Sennen for some leading practice for John and Andy.  The rain showers came in during the afternoon and we had to beat a hasty retreat back to the shelter of the town.

Bosigran

After my day at Baggy point I drove down to Cornwall to meet up with Andy and John for a weekend on Cornish granite.  We had a very busy day on Saturday climbing Alisons Rib, Door Post (HS) and Commando Ridge before retiring to the pub for a well earned curry and a pint!

John and Andy starting pitch 1 of commando ridge

Baggy

Friday was a sunny day at Baggy point and I met up with my old friend and fellow instructor Baz for a few routes in the sun. 

Baz at Baggy Point

Hound Tor

Another sunny day on Dartmoor for the students from Court Fields.

Coasteering

Wednesday was a beautiful sunny day at Croyde in North Devon.  We met up with Russ Johns and did some extreme coasteering with our students as a part of the annual activities week.  The students enjoyed the big jumps into the warm sea and exploring the caves - an exciting day.

Baggy Point

Saturday was a beautiful sunny day in North Devon and low tide fell in the middle of the day making it an ideal opportunity to visit the coast.  After warming up on some of the single pitch climbs we finshed the day by climbing Kinky boots (VS).  The sunny conditions had attracted a large number of climbers and even more surfers to this beautiful part of Devon - a great day!

Alan on pitch 2 of Kinky Boots (VS) at Baggy Point

SPA Assessment

This weekend I was working with Simon Tong delivering an SPA assessment course.  We met the candidates on Friday evening for a session at the Rock and Rapid climbing wall otherwise known as 'The Mill' in South Molton.  On Saturday it was hot and sunny and we had a perfect day for assessing personal climbing skills at Sheeps Tor followed by a day at Chudleigh looking at managing groups, top roping, bottom roping, problem solving and running an abseiling session.

 We will be running an SPA training course on 15-17 July 2011.

Simon assessing gear placements

 

Candidates leading

SPA Assessment 5/6 June

There is one place left on the SPA assessment course, get in touch if you need an assessment before the summer starts or the school break up.  Cost £130 - all candidates must be registered with a home nations training board e.g. MLTE, MLTS, MLTW or MLTNI to take part.

Introduction to outdoor climbing

Belaying at Sheepstor

Rebecca and David came down from London for their first taste of outdoor climbing on Dartmoor having climbed regularly indoors at the Castle climbing wall.  The weather over Easter was wonderful with hot temperatures on 20th and 21st April.  Wednesday was so hot that we were glad to be in the shade of the trees at the Dewerstone and practicing skills on a few multi-pitch routes.  The following day we had a session at Sheepstor where 5 routes were climbed and both Rebecca and David set up top ropes and bottom roping systems and even did an abseil before getting back in the car for a long drive back to London.

Rebecca climbing at Sheepstor

SPA assessment 5/6 June

We are running and SPA training on the weekend of 9/10 April and an assessment on the weekend of 5/6 June.  The courses will start on the Friday evening with a wall session and visit crags on Dartmoor, Chudleigh etc over the weekend. Get in touch if you would like to book a place.

BCU White water

Just had a great weekend doing a BCU white water safety and recuse course on the Dart and Erme with Dave Jackson and Ollie Vass.  I can thoroughly recommend this course if you are a paddler but make sure you have a dry suit!

SPA training 9/10 April

We will be running an SPA training course on the weekend of 9/10 April.  The course will commence on the evening of 8/4 with a visit to a local climbing wall and then visits to local Devon crags such on Dartmoor and Chudleigh over the weekend.  The cost will be £130, for more information get in touch with me maldickson@yahoo.com

Click here for the  SPA Handbook

snow, snow everywhere

Snow from Friday night was just clearing when we had another 5 inches during the early hours of Monday morning.  A day of pavement clearing and building snowmen planned for today.  Will be a white Christmas on Exmoor this year.

Dry tooling

Had my first experience of using the new Alp Kit figure 4 indoor training axes today at the Rock and Rapid climbing wall in South Molton, an excellent aid to winter climbing.  Another similar training axe is available from schmoolz.com, both feature wooden shafts and reinforced rubber loops for hooking onto climbing holds -I think I will be investing in a pair! (video from schmoolz.com)

Baggy Point

A glorious sunny day on Monday at Baggy Point.  Tim was making a return to climbing after a 20 year break and had brought along his daughter Charis for the day.  The autumn sun shone and the sea was calm and the climbing was excellent.

Cornwall

Paul at Bosigran

Just returned from a weekend climbing with Paul at Bosigran, the weather was excellent and very hot for mid October. The crag was busy with lots of other climbers taking advantage of the good weather.

Exmoor challenge

This weekend I was working for Norman Vernon from Off Limits Adventures helping him run some corporate training days.  The boys and girls from the accountancy firm had a good time and went to sample the local hostlery in the evening,  If your firm needs a coprporate training day get in touch as Off limits can provide these anywhere in the country.

Dewerstone

A day at the Dewerstone with Sarah and her son Stu.  After a wet start the weather cleared up and we even had some welcome sun.  Stuart climbed really well and had a great head for heights.

Dewerstone

Cornwall

Just returned from a few days in Cornwall at Chair Ladder and Bosigran.
Jon (below) on Flannel Avenue at Chair Ladder

.

Deep water soloing

It was a beautiful sunny day on the south coast yesterday so Noel and I decided to do the Magical Mystery Tour on Berry Head.  1100ft of climbing and a swim to finish - excellent fun.

Hound Tor

Today we were supposed to be coasteering but with big waves forecast for the north coast we had to change our plans, so we went to Dartmoor for some abseiling, walking and climbing.  We even managed to avoid the rain until it was time to drive home.

High Ropes

Today we went to the High Ropes course at the Ultimate High near Bideford.  The students really enjoyed the high ropes, zip wire and auto belaying system on the climbing wall.  A great facility, we will be back next year.

Hound Tor

On Wednesday I took 20 students from Court Fields School climbing at Hound Tor.  All the students enjoyed themselves and did plenty of climbing.

Dartmoor

On Saturday I met up with Vanessa and Nicola for a climbing refresher course at the Dewerstone. After brushing up on belay techniques we climbed a few multi-pitch routes in the sunshine and had a very enjoyable day.

Baggy Point

A very hot weekend and a great day on Baggy Point.

SPA Training

We will be running an SPA training course in Devon on July 24 and 25th.

Lundy Sea kayaking

Just returned from a great sea kayaking trip to Lundy with Mike and Steve.  We had excellent weather going over and did Lee Bay to Lundy in four and a half hours and also saw some porpoises near the island.

After climbing the Devils slide and Albion on Thursday we paddled back on Friday arriving at a very sunny Lee Bay at mid-day.  A great trip and an ambition fulfilled.  Thanks to Mike for the organisation and the loan of the sea kayak.


(below The Devils Slide pitch 2)

Dartmoor

On Saturday I met up with Sergei and Chris from Taunton for an intro to climbing course.  We went through everything from fitting a harness and belaying to seconding some multi-pitch routes.  The weather was kind and it was dry all day long.

Sea kayaking

A hot sunny day on the Dorset coast.  Today Simon and I sea kayaked 25Km from Weymouth to Kimmeridge Bay stopping of at Durdle Door and Lulworth Cove on the way.  Conditions were very calm but the April sun was suprisingly hot - an excellent way to travel.

BBC Thrillseeker

Today I met up with 3 local climbers who had booked me as part of the BBC Thrillseeker campaign that was advertised on the Countryfile programme.  We had a day at Hound Tor and did plenty of top roping and single pitch routes.

Intro rock course

Good Friday looked like it was going to be wet but we escaped the rain all day and even had some sun.  Gemma and Jordan were down from London for the weekend for an intro rock course and we had a good day at the Dewerstone.  On Saturday the rain caught up with us and we retreated to Dartrock of an afternoon at the the climbing wall.

Easter climbing

A busy weekend coming up with climbers booked in on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.  All we need now is some spring weather!

Snow

Like most parts of the country my corner of Devon had about 5 inches of snow last night, so no school today.

North Wales winter climbing

Another cold day in Wales on Sunday with snow down to the road level in Capel Curig. Rob and I went to the Idwal stream, which was in good condition with plenty of ice there was still some running water in places but enough ice to avoid getting wet. A few more days of cold weather should see more of the ice routes around the Devils kitchen coming into condition.

Snowdon

After driving up from Devon and listening to snow reports in the East of the country I was pleased to find the weather in North Wales was bitterly cold and with snow forecast. On Saturday we went to look at an old favourite - Central Trinity on Snowdon. A good climb but it needs a few days of freeze/thaw to harden up the new snow. On the top it was very cold - shame the summit cafe wasn't open!

Dartmoor

Met up with Darren for a day at the Dewerstone. The weather was great in the morning withsun and clear skies but as forecast the rain arrived at 2.30 so we retreated to the Dartrock climbing wall for some indoor routes and a nice cup of tea. By the time we left many of the roads were getting flooded. Forecast to rain on sunday as well.

Berry Head

After a very wet end to August it has been great to have a sunny weekend so I took the opportunity to do Quality St at Berry head a 230ft VS traverse of the end of the headland which goes just above the high water mark. A great position and nice to be beside the sea!


Ben on pitch 2

Dewerstone

After another wet week in August I finally met up with Anthony who was going climbing to celebrate his 30th birthday. Anthony was already a good wall climber who makes regular visits to The Castle in London. We got some much needed sunshine on Saturday and as it was a bank holiday weekend the crag was very busy. After a morning of belay escapesand rescues we avoided the crowds and did Fly on the Wall (HS) and Spiders Web (HVS 5a)

Dewerstone

After the heat of Baggy on Thursday it was back to the damp of Dartmoor today. I met up with Mark from Cornwall and did three routes at the Dewerstone, Mark was climbing well and didn't mind the wet!

Popped into the new Dartrock wall on the way home and it looks very good. Well worth a visit if you are in the area.

Baggy Point

A hot and sunny day today at Baggy. I met up with Mat just after high tide and went to do some routes on the Promontory and Long Rock slabs. We did Ben (s), Marion (HS) and Lost Horizon (VS). A very enojyable day.

Mat on Ben

Bosigran

Another good day on Friday, climbed at Bosigran with Jon and did Venusberg (VS) and Zig zag (VS) and it was another hot day.

Chair ladder

A hot day at a great climbing venue. Did Terriers Tooth and Pedulum Chimney on Thursday, 2 great routes on nice granite.

Sat at the top of Pedulum Chimney - what a great view!

Coasteering

Today I took students from Court Fields on a coasteering trip at Baggy Point. It rained but this didn't matter as we were in the sea and jumping and swimming. A very enjoyable session and hopefully many of them will back again next year.

Hay Tor Court Fields School

I took students from my school to Hay Tor for a climbing session today and despite a wet and windy start the students climbed well and enjoyed the experience.

Sheepstor

A day out at Sheepstor with Jon, Paul and Josh. The weather was good after a shower in the morning and the boys were able to do some leading as well as plenty of top roping. A very enjoyable day.

Josh - learning to lead

Dewerstone

I was back at the Dewerstone on Saturday with Ian from Somerset who was keen to do some climbing and look at belays on multi-pitch climbs. After a warm up route we climbed Fly on the Wall (HS) and Vineyard (VS). It was nice to see fellow instructors Andy Holborn and Ben Bradford who were both working with groups at the crag.

I'll be back here next weekend.

Ian on pitch 3 of Vineyard

Wye Valley

Had such a nice day last week that I came back today with Duncan to do some more. Angel Eyes HVS 5b was a great route with lots of exposure but a bit of a tricky start. We also did Puma HVS.

Wye Valley

Met up with Jon at Wintours Leap and climbed Right Hand Route (HS), Nibelheim (VS) and Bacchanalian (HS) Jon was trying to push his grade and ended up doing the 5b finish on this route.

A great day on some very nice routes above the river Wye.

Swanage

The long abseil into Boulder Ruckle. A nice day at Swanage on some steep limestone.